Article

Apple turnover

Categories: Friday feeling

The lightest of puff pastry with a generous English bramley filling, courtesy of The Flour Station

To the uninitiated it sounds more like an instruction than a food: ‘Apple, turnover!’ You could imagine Chris Martin pleading with his screaming daughter as she lies full length, beating her fists on the ground. Most of us who have had some initiation into western culinary traditions, however, will know apple turnover is neither a parental plea, nor a Coldplay song, but a pastry: one which has been delighting Brits since at least the 16th century, when those making savoury pastries for industrial workers’ lunches had the idea of stuffing them with fruit. 

“We wanted a pastry that celebrated the classic English apple,” says Heather at The Flour Station. “Our turnover has a generous bramley apple filling covered in a crisp, flaky puff pastry.” Forget the puff pastry of the supermarkets; forget even the puff pastry your grandmother made. This is flour and butter-made air. It melts on the tongue. It whispers as you ease the turnover out of the paper bag and bite softly into it. It’s a moment on the lips and, seconds later, it is scattered absolutely everywhere. 

The butter is, bien sur, French; the apples are of course English. “The pastry is delicately scored on top,” Heather continues—less for function than flair. Don’t be deterred by the seeming thickness of the pastry: the filling is ample, and the ratio between the two mediums almost utopian. Our only observation is that it works even better with a few slices of Kirkham’s Lancashire cheese.